IN LI, THE ELEPHANT RESTED

       The story goes that, in 12th century, Princess Chamari (not to be confused with Chamathewee) fled south from Luang Prabang in Laos as it was being conquered, and when her elephant reached a spot between Chiang Mai and Lamphun,it went berserk and bolted, crossing rivers and valleys.
       A settlement was established where the beast finally came to rest,and Chamari called it "Li".
       Though today Lamphun's largest district, Li is still little more than empty land.Visitors are few.
       "The word means'a hidden place in the woods," our guide Prisana Yoochana explains as we arrive in the small town of Li itself.
       "In the old days,people came to Li by chance-they didn't mean to come here."
       Perhaps it was the wish,or the curse,of the princess on the run,aiming to keep outsiders well away.
       Li of the 21st century in nevertheless easy and comfortable place to visit.
       Tucked away in the south of Lamphun province, Li is on wellpaved Route 106 as it descends into the remoteness,rolling grassland on either side.Here and there are small hamlets and bamboo shacks,and once in while a bell-shaped pagoda with a shining spire.
       "Li is wee known as 'the Land of Dharma' because a number of great monks came from here," says the guide.
       Khruba Sriwichai,the revered priest who made Doi Suthep in neighbouring Chiand Mai such a popular pilgrims' destination,was a Li native,as was Khruba Chaiwongsa, who integrated the faith of Karen people into a small "Buddhist empire" centred on Wat Phrabart Huai Tom.
       The modern version of that temple's huge golden pagoda comes into view 10 kilometres from downtown Li.Built in 1995, the gilded structure fashioned after Rangoon's famed Shwedagon rises 65 metres to dominate the horizon.
       There are four entrances to the pagoda around the base.A leisurely stroll is called for so that you can fully take in the murals.
       The pagoda has 48 small stupas around its base,and at the very tip an umbrella as crown,which the local karen tell us is made of real gold.
       "Making a pilgrimage to the Shwedagon Temple is an important way for the Karen to affirm their fait,but few make it to Rangoon," one of them explains as she hands visitors free flowers and incense with which to pay their respects.
       We follow the "virtuous path" to the original Wat Phra Thad Ha Duang-the temple of the five pagodas.It sits atop the site of the original settlement of Li.
       The elephant with wanderlust notwithstanding,Princess Chamari evidently established the temple after seeing five mysterious fireballs float above the locale in the night.
       A sizeable chapel hall,with five gilded pagodas,stands on a knoll.The stupas themselves don't look as though they were built in the 12th century,but then they've been gold plated since.There is little to see of the old settlement apart from scattered molehills marking the ruins of city walls.
       It goes without saying that Li remains blissfully undisturbed by commercialism and tourism.It's almost all rural,with rolling hills,forest and small rivers-the best of the beautiful north,in the opinion of many.
       Ther are the temples and stupas to see,and then you can really embrace nature's beauty at Mae Ping National Park,which stretches over 1,000 square kilometres, extending into Doi Tao and Sam Ngao districts.
       A highlight of a visit to Li is a boat ride through the park on the Ping River.The best part is a 140km segment between forested banks and chalk cliffs.
       "If you prefer to get fully engaged with the water instead of just flirting with it,there are exceptional water-falls and series of cascades," says the park chief.
       "You can also have fun hiking across the fields of Thung Kik,which are full of wildflowers."
       And the park has seemingly endless tracks in and out of the woods,an unbeatable lure for serious mountain bikers.
       After a full day's excursion,we return to "urban" Li.Princess Chamari's little town has no posh restaurants,just a noodle shack that keeps customers waiting for their food for half an hour.
       If Chamari wanted Li to be a hideout, a hidden place in the woods,her wish has come true amid the vast empty space,with the citizens absolved of labour and responsibility.
       In Li,things move slowly,often actually standing still.What relaxation,and what a great place to escape to!