HAVE YOU SEEN THE DRAGON

       This weekend the Mekong River will again erupt with its myterious fireballs. What are they? Join the never-ending debate and make up your own mind.
       The phenomenon is as enigmatic as it si beautiful. Thousands of pink and red bursts of light-the "naga fireballs" sometimes called "ghost fireballs"-rise from the Mekong in Nong Khai on the Lao border.
       It might as well be an episode in "The X-Files" sci-fi television series. It happens only at this time each year, under the full moon of the 11th lunar month, which falls on Monday on the old Laotian calendar.
       The glowing spheres, the size of chicken eggs, hang in the air for a few minutes before disappearing, leaving in their wake astonishment, mystification and many many questions.
       a hoax? A miracle? Why only at this time of the year? Why Nong Khai?
       Manas Kanoksil is one of the "myth busters". The local doctor has been observing and studying the fireballs for more than 10 years.
       The science that he's applied tells him that the bizarre phenomenon is the combustion of natural gases released from the riverbed and heat drifting on the surface.
       The combustion requires a complete set of perfectly natural occurrences, including the relative positions of the earth, sun and moon. Hence its occur rence on the last night of Buddhist Lent.
       However, the local people tend to be more interested in swapping science for mythology.
       Way back at the birth of legends, the story goes, Nong Khai and other settlements along the Mekong were created by the water serpents called nagas.
       Only later was the saga imbued with Buddhist fancy: The Lord Buddha ascended to heaven for Lent to visit his mother and his return during the full moon of the 11th lunar month was cause for rejoicing.
       To show their delight, the nagas shot fireballs into the air.
       The drama continues. A television crew once tried to convince, witnesses that it was a hoax perpetrated by the Lao on the far side on the river. Unfortunately, the only proof was videotape of a few Lao firing their rifles into the air.
       A painter living on the Thai bank, Manas Anuraksa, remains enchanted by the fireball phenomenon, regardless of the explanation.
       "It's very peculiar, and we're not sure who or what causes it, but whatever it is,I believe this mythical event could make Nong Khai special enough to become a wonder of the world."
       Manas is right. The sleepy little town, once known to visitors only as a place to get a cold beer before crossing teh border to Laos, has become a popular destination thanks to the bizarre annual show.
       Every year more than 300,000 people come to see the fireballs, and no fewer are expected this weekend, when they're scheduled to recur.
       One way to watch them is rent a motorcycle and ride eastward along the Mekong from Muang district to Phon Phisai and Rattanawapee.
       Ask around about the best spots to stop-the riverbanks get quite crowded in places-and keep your eyes peeled from 6 to 9pm.
       There will also be religious ceremonies marking the end of the three - month Lenten retreat, plus longtailed-boat races, fireworks and illuminated floats.
       Strictly sideshows, of course-you have to see the fireballs.